I love Market Day in Italy. Each town in Central Italy has their own market, here in Nettuno our market day is Thursdays. The market it just a few minutes walk from our house and just down the street from our bakery. So I usually start market day with a cappuccino and cornetto then stroll down the long street that has become the market.

Nettuno is unique because the market inhabits one very long street and you can easily see everything by just strolling down the street. All markets have certain vendors like the “olive guy” selling every beautiful olive from the spicy Sicilian olives to the salty black wrinkled olives from Morocco. My favorite is the large green “dolce” olive. It is not sweet like the name imply’s, rather it is sweet in comparison to the other olives that have a definite vinegar taste. These olives are fresh with a fruity aroma, they have not sat in a vinegar brine or been marinated yet. I must keep a supply of these on hand at all times, so I pick up a bag of these little gems. The “olive” guy greets me and calls me “bella”. Actually, they all call everyone “bella” but it still feels good.

I recently was introduced to “lupin” this is a quarter size yellow legume that is also brined like an olive. These I also get from the “olive guy” and have become a regular staple for aperitivo with wine.

At the market you see a vast array of seasonal and local fruit and vegetables. Now in early October I still see stone fruits such as peaches but pumpkins have already made their appearance as well. The stands are well stocked with zucchini flowers, bell peppers, onions, grapes, fennel, lettuces, tomatoes and  so much more. So I pick up some fennel and oranges and lettuce for my salad at lunch and place them in my bag.

At the market you can find fresh cheese such as buffalo mozzarella, the creamy burrata from the Puglia region (the heel of the boot) and naturally leavened bread called “madre lievito“. All of these delicious items are found at the same stand that I buy slices of prosciutto that are carved by hand. Buffalo mozzarella makes a weekly visit to our dining table so we buy some of this as well. I have selected the perfect naturally leavened bread to pair with this!

My friend showed me how to fillet the anchovies that he bought here in the market. He carefully fillets them under a gentle stream of water at the kitchen sink and gently places each tiny fillet in a glass jar and covers it with olive oil and red pepper flakes. He shows us the sheer joy of eating the anchovies fillet on a bed of Burrata spread on the naturally leavened bread. “Perfection!” he declares as his eyes roll back in his head as he savors his first bite.

There is also the local honey lady, the fresh cut flower people and the place to buy “nursery” plants like fresh flowers to plant. Now in October it is time for Chrysanthemums sporting their rust and mustard and ruby colored flowers. Yes, I think my balcony could use some freshening up after this long hot summer. They go in my basket as well.

Aside from all this fresh food goodness is the amazing used clothing deals. I love how they call the used clothing section “The American Market”. I asked why they call it this and I was told that after WWII there was a very big shortage in Italy for anything. So Americans donated used clothing to Italy and they called it “The American Market”. Especially this region of Italy near the shores of Nettuno and Anzio where the decisive battles were fought between the Allied and Axis forces. The markets were born in this area from lack of goods but now they are busting with a wealth of fresh produce and goods.

I have to say, the olives may bring me in to the market, but its the “American Market” that I need blinders for. There are all of these tables with clothes, shoes and purses. Some are 10 euros, others 5 still some tables for .50! European, British and Italian brands just beckoning me to take a look. Look at that mustard colored leather purse for 8 euros, or those suede pumps for 5. I can’t look away, I must dig.

So several great deals go into my bag and finally I leave the Market at closing time (usually around 12:30) tired, hot and hungry with all of my treasures tucked under my arms.

Suddenly the walk home seems long and arduous, but soon I am thrusting my key into the door and emerging through to the other side with all my parcels in tow. Usually I have invited a few friends who are in town over for a “market day” lunch. We put together a big salad, pour the fresh mozzarella into a bowl, cut up the fresh fruit and tomatoes, lay out the cantaloupe and prosciutto and put out a bowl of olives and fresh bread. We dig into our “Market Day” feast on the flower covered balcony under the warm October sun and discuss the experiences of the morning.

Prosciutto and Melon, fresh and in season

For Other Articles About Traveling & Living in Italy try one from our Archives:

A Morning Run in Nettuno (Published September 10, 2017)

A Visit to Castelli Romani (Published September 13, 2017)

Dinner for Six (Published October 1, 2017)

Italian Cooking School (Published October 8, 2017)

Culinary Tour of Napoli (Published November 17, 2017)

Changing Seasons in Italy (Published November 25, 2017)

Our Trip to Englands Cotswolds (Published January 12, 2018)

Cooking with Pasquale (Published January 28, 2018)

A Tour of the Garden of Ninfa (Published May 7, 2018)

A Trip to Montefiascone (Published May 17, 2018)

San Gimignano, a visit to a Tuscan Hill Town (Published June 9, 2018)

Tuscan Hot Springs of San Filippo & Saturnia (Published June 13, 2018)

Articles about Tiny House “Homesteading” in California:

The Beginning of a Blog (Published May 18, 2017)

The Cherry Tree (Published May 20, 2017)

How to Roast Your Own Coffee Beans (Published May 22, 2017)

Successful Square Foot Gardening (Published May 23, 2017)

Yosemite (Published June 7, 2017)

My Tiny House (Published June 15, 2017)

Making Noyaux (French Bitter Almond Extract from Stone fruit pits) Published August 7, 2017)

Sweet & Spicy Pickles (Published July 21, 2017

Classic Canned Peaches (Published August 6, 2018)

Ricotta from Powdered Milk (Published Aug 5, 2017)

Recipe Index:

Desserts:

Buttery Flaky Pie Crust

Cherry Pie (published May 20, 2017)

Homemade Berry Pie (published July 23, 2017)

Almond Roca (published February 22, 2018)

Homemade Banana Cream Pie (published May 10, 2018)

Cannoli (published August 3, 2017)

Easy Authentic Tiramasu (published May 3, 2018)

Ooey Gooey Blonde Brownies (published August 11, 2018)

Old Fashioned Peach Crisp (published August 1, 2018

Classic Canned Peaches (published August 8, 2018)

Noyaux (Almond Extract made from stone fruit pits) Published August 7, 2017

Cherry Cheesecake Ice Cream (Published May 25, 2017

Breakfast:

Whole Wheat Waffles (published August 12, 2017)

Dutch Babies (published May 30, 2018)

Hollandaise Sauce and Eggs Benedict (published September 23, 2018)

Dinner Ideas from Around the World:

Asian Cuisine:

Babaganush (Middle Eastern Roasted Eggplant Dip) Published July 29, 2017

Shrimp Spring Rolls with Peanut Dipping Sauce (Published August 18, 2017)

Vietnamese Lemongrass Beef Salad (Bun Bo Xoa) Published March 12, 2018

Gyoza (Potstickers or Chinese Dumplings) Published August 27,2018)

Kung Pao Chicken (Published August 23, 2018)

Italian Cuisine:

Pesto Genovese (published September 21, 2018

Saltimbocca (Roman Style Veal Scallopini) (Published February 18, 2018)

Steamed Mussels and Fettuccine (Cozze e Fettuccine) Published May 4, 2019)

Shrimp Risotto (Risotto alla Gamberi) Published June 2, 2018)

Pasta Carbonara (Published May 12, 2018)

Arancini (Italian Fried Rice Balls) Published June 4, 2018)

Ossobuco alla Milanese (Milan Style Veal Shanks & Saffron Risotto) Published June 20, 2018)

Lasagna Bolognese (Published Aug 3, 2018)

Eggplant Parmesan (Published August 29, 2018)

Cacio e Pepe (Published August 28, 2018)

American Cuisine:

Southern Fried Chicken (published September 11, 2018)

Spiced Chickpea Salad with Roasted Cauliflower (Published April 22, 2018)

Beef Bone Broth (published September 24, 2018)

Classic American Hamburger (published September 25, 2018)

Mexican Cuisine:

Shrimp Tacos (Published September 19, 2018)

Side DIshes:

Festive Pineapple Sesame Coleslaw (published September 14, 2018)

Italian Roasted Vegetable Platter (published September 13, 2018)

Canning and Preserving:

Noyaux (French bitter almond extract from stone fruit) (Published Aug 7, 2017)

Sweet & Spicy Pickles (Published July 6, 2017)

Canned Peaches (Published August 23, 2018)

Ricotta from Powdered Milk (Published Aug 5, 2017)

Candied Orange Peel (Published September 12, 2018)