We crossed from the Puglia region at the heal of the boot to Calabria at the “toe”. Our first stop was to visit some friends in Crotone, an unassuming city in the “instep” of the boot. Our impression of all beach towns in Italy is that they are a little rough around the edges. Aside from the beautiful cities of Amalfi and the Cinque Terra, or our beautiful beach cities of Sperlonga and Gaeta, which still look “picture perfect” Italian. From the beaches just south of Rome all the way down to Calabria, the beachside cities are less than ideal looking.
The beaches themselves are beautiful, stretching wide and long with varying shades and textures of sand. The water is warm in the summer and calm, great for wading out for a long distance and swimming is a national pastime. You will see lounge chairs lined up in neat rows with umbrellas for rent or free sections with multicolored umbrellas in clusters. Everyone is at the beach, Moma’s with babies, Nona’s (grandmas) wearing their bathing suits and children playing.
It’s not the actual beach that’s not pretty, rather it’s the approach to the beach, the roads that you travel to reach the beach are usually lined in shabby weeds, trash and graffiti. The buildings in beach towns all look like communist block apartments void of personality with iron balconies. I didn’t photograph this because I really cannot bring myself to do it, it’s just not pretty…
There are a few adorable towns and castles to visit along the beach roads like the ruins of Nero’s Villa in Anzio, the medieval Borgo (old neighborhood) in Nettuno, the beautiful old city of San Felice and Hercules Temple in Terraccina. But aside from these little gems along the sea you will find bamboo looking weeds that tower along the roadsides and parched looking ground. I used to really dislike the tall bamboo weeds that grew everywhere in Italy but then I learned of their usefulness in creating climbing trellis for the tomatoes on the garden and I started to tolerate them like everyone else.
I have given a lot of thought to the ugliness of the roads along the beach areas of Italy, always trying to understand why the Italians don’t try to manicure their beautiful areas like we do in California. I’ve come to the conclusion that life has been very hard for Italians, not long ago they were war torn from the last two world wars and experiencing the devasting effects of poverty and hunger, barely carving out an existence for themselves in the fields and cities.
When they have something so naturally beautiful as the beach, why try to improve it? Just enjoy what you have that has come to you easily. Also, when you have to prioritize things, making the roadways attractive is low on the priority list. So, I’m sure the Italians don’t see it as ugly, they see it as naturally beautiful and free to everyone to enjoy. Italy is indeed blessed with plenty of beaches to go around, lining the entire boot on both sides. Maybe it’s my viewpoint that needs to change, instead of viewing the weeds as ugly and unkept I should view them as free and natural, untouched by man and accepted, even useful.
To watch Italians on the beach in August you would think this is the way it’s always been, people taking the whole month of August off to swim and sun, dine and play cards at the beach. Each Italian is as bronze as the body will allow and content to wile away everyday at the beach. But this is a recent pastime for Italians, in the 1950’s and 60’s who had time for such frivolities as spending time at the beach to suntan and swim? But the popularity started to grow through the decades until it has become a nation pastime today. Maybe the city infrastructure has not had the time or resources to catch up. Or maybe they all were enjoying the beach instead of adorning it…
So our trip to Crotone is tinged with this reality, it was a run down city with a glorious past. First founded by the Greeks before Rome came into existence, there are still a few Greek pillars standing tall and erect near the Crotone Castle that stand as tribute of an ancient time and an ancient power. Many local Crotone people still have the Greek blood flowing in their DNA.
The Crotone Castle is imposing and grand, built as early as 1000 and expanded through medieval times. Down deep in the foundations you can still find the remnants of Greek civilization going back to BC. The castle glows golden as it basks in the warm setting sun. Surrounding it’s grandeur of days gone by there is a sea of colorful umbrellas and bronze bodies enjoying the beach in the shade of the castle. Little boys dive into the water from paddle boats causing delightful splashes and laughter. The water catches the light as they splash, looking like diamonds glittering as they spray into the air.
The Castle and Borgo photograph exceptionally well, helping my eyes that are stuck in the trashy reality, to see the city through the same rose colored glasses as the Italians are wearing. It’s better that way, just drink the koolaide, you will be happier .
A friend walks me through the old city of Crotone and points out the local foods. I happily buy wine from the Ciro area not far from here in Crotone, the local spicy spreadable sausage called Nduja and pita bread in the shape of a ring larger than a dinner plate. They serve a spicy paste made with peppers and small anchovies on the pita bread with fresh Tropea onions on top. The small red chili pepper reigns supreme in Calabrese food and whenever I ask for pepperoncini here, I am handed a fresh red chili to nibble alongside my pasta or pizza.
Our friend shows us where to buy a slice of pizza or a fried calzone and granita. We pay only €1.50 for our delicious lunch and the granita was our friends favorite flavor: Mango and Strawberry. Of course we have to try the lemon also, granita is very popular in the south and we happily oblige to sampling this cool and refreshing “slushy” of Italy.
As we walk towards the castle we pass shops selling local wine, various jars of hot peppers, fresh hot peppers and dried hot peppers hanging in clusters on store fronts. In the middle of the shops on the wide lane, there is a little church decked out on fresh flowers. The bride is standing outside the church waiting expectantly to start her wedding march to the front of the church. We see the adorable little flower girls start their walk and the bride soon follows. How unexpected to see this on your average Monday afternoon with the beach goers strolling by in their bathing suits.
After our tour of the castle we sit down at a little bar spilling out to the residential street. We buy a few cold Peroni beers from the refrigerator case and sit at the red plastic tables watching the neighborhood go by.
When you are in the south, don’t expect perfection in your surroundings but look a little deeper and see the people, warm and accepting. Like our gracious hosts that took us in and treated us like family. Like the new friend who showed us through town and showed us the local foods. Hard working people who also know how to enjoy life and their beautiful surroundings, even if they are a little rough around the edges. Stately castles that have stood the test of time and inviting beaches that take life as it comes. Sit down with friends, try to speak the language, drink a Peroni and eat the local food, you will love it too.
Other Articles About Traveling & Living in Italy that you may enjoy:
The Ancient City of Matera(Published August 2019)
Alberobello, in the Pulgia Region of Italy (Published August 2019)
House Hunters International in Italy(Published April 24, 2019)
Our New Town in Italy(Published June 17, 2019
Life Lessons from the Secret Garden(Published June 21, 2019)
Summer Guests(Published August 3, 2019)
Wild Boar, Cows on the Loose and Rabbit Stew(Published August 2019)
1 Comment
This made me laugh! But I kind of understand because when we moved to Martinez I looked at the refinery in horror because it was the most hideous thing I ever saw. But after a while I didn’t even notice it anymore! Here in California though they would be cutting down all weeds because of the fire danger! I do wish you had included a photo of the weeds so we could have seen how awful they are! Lol. I’ll look for a picture on the internet.