The time has come to depart Crotone for our next destination of Tropea. This region of Calabria is called the “Coast of the Gods” because it is white sand beaches, turquoise waters and volcanic rock. There is a beach in Zambrone called Paradiso del Sub that we spent a delightful day lying in the white sand of the free beach, swimming in the warm turquoise water and snorkeling along the rugged volcanic coastline.
It was close to impossible to find parking here, we arrived at 11:30 am and searched and searched for parking causing my normally calm husband to become unraveled and threatening to return to our mediocre hotel to swim in the pool. Fortunately we traveled a little further and found parking along the street.
We had parked further down the beach than we wanted to be because we wanted to be near the volcanic outcrop for snorkeling. But we rented a kayak and paddled toward the good snorkeling. We loved looking at the rugged coastline and swimming in the beautiful clear water. The terrain looks like Monterey, California with the volcanic rock but the water is clear turquoise blue and warm for swimming and snorkeling.
We left our little beach spot around 5:00 and journeyed by car further down the “Coast of the Gods” towards Tropea. This area of Calabria is known for their red onions, they are elongated and so sweet you can eat them like an apple! As you drive down the road you see countless roadside stands selling red chilies hanging from clusters and braids of garlic and the beautiful purple onions. I count myself fortunate to be visiting here in August, despite the traffic and hordes of Italians on vacation, If not, we wouldn’t see the onions and chili’s being sold and we wouldn’t get the true vibe of this crazy beautiful place.
We arrived at the beautiful ancient city of Tropea perched on a cliff plateau in time to enjoy an Aperitivo (an adult beverage served with light snacks) in the main square. We were drawn in to this cafe by the table set outside piled high with fried foods such as onion rings, calamari, shrimp, potatoes and caprese salad on a skewer.
As the “beach goers” climbed the steep steps to the piazza still dripping in their wet bathing suits and looking red and tired from the sun they looked at us admiringly as we sipped our icy Spritz and nibbled our fried foods at our quaint little table. Finally we were the people drinking at a little cafe in the square, usually we are the ones looking on admiringly….
After being refreshed by our Spritz (Aperol, Prosecco and orange wedge) in the square and regrettably gorging ourselves on fried food, we strolled the city streets and made our way back down to the beach. We were just in time for sunset and we enjoyed the view from the little beach by a cave that framed the scene perfectly.
As the sun sunk into the sea the horizon was colored red from the smoke that had spewed from the active volcano Stromboli. You could still see it sputtering smoke from it’s great crater and it was a dramatic finish to a beautiful day in Tropea.
The next morning my husband was exhausted from driving, sunning, snorkeling and kayaking. Not to mention all of the pasta and pizza he had consumed had put him in a food coma. I was anxious to snap him out of it because I wanted to see the last location on my list, Capo Vaticano. I almost couldn’t convince him to leave the hotel and I almost couldn’t convince him to not simply return to Tropea. But he roused himself and we made the 45 minute drive to Capo Vaticano., even starting early enough to secure good parking.
This was also a beautiful beach area and Jeff’s request for rousing himself out of his stuper was that we would actually pay for lounge chairs and an umbrella. He wanted to live large rather than the usual “free beach” and schlepping our equipment down to the beach. We paid €20 for two lounge chairs and an umbrella. It really is quite a civilized way to spend a beach day. We even ate at the little beach side restaurant rather than our usual sack lunch with a side of sand and warm beer.
It’s amazing how you can spend an entire day at the beach, you swim a little, tan a little, eat a little, take a nap, read a book and repeat. We added to the excitement by renting a paddle boat and exploring the volcanic cape. Jeff even got a massage on the beach. We could get used to this.
I loved snorkeling here, the water was so clear and warm. The volcanic rock formed huge canyons that I glided over like a bird soaring in the sky. I swam through schools of little fish that flowed and turned all around me. I winked at the coral as it waved at me from the canyon wall. I could see the ripples in the white sand below as it formed beautiful artful patterns in the seabed. The sunlight sparkled on the seabed as it effortlessly danced in the sand colored turquoise by the water. It’s the stuff that dreams are made of. Even though we have beautiful beaches near where we live in Itri, we don’t have this color water and sand and we don’t have snorkeling, not like this. I will miss this water…
But it’s time to continue or Roadtrip of Calabria, we travel just a little down the road to the old city of Pizzo, this city is also on a large bluff that overlooks to sea. We park our car and start to walk up the narrow winding streets to the main square. Pizzo’s Claim to fame is the Tartufo dessert. It’s gelato that is hand formed with a gooey fudge in the middle. On the outside is chopped pistachios or other crunchy goodies.
We have come here for the dessert but it’s noon so we must eat lunch first. We settle into a restaurant and Jeff orders Grilled Sea Bream, this is a mild white fish that is cut in half and grilled whole. He gets a side of grilled vegetables to go with it. I order a shrimp pasta with a four cheese cream sauce, if you remember my previous blogs, it’s very taboo to have dairy and fish together in Italy so I am confused by this dish even though I really enjoy it! I ask the waiter about it and he says it’s very normal to have cream sauce in Calabria. Hmmmm, another reason to love Calabria! I enjoy the pasta with a glass of wine.
We have our meal while watching the people stroll by as the walk toward the promenade to gaze at the beautiful sea below. We have been looking across the plaza all during lunch at the Tartufo cafes, we are anxious to try our dessert! We choose a cafe across from us, it’s not the original place for Tartufo, but they say it’s the best. We order a pistachio and a hazelnut Tartufo and happily wait for it,
It took 45 minutes to arrive! But fortunately we aren’t in a hurry and are enjoying another Italian pastime of sitting in the piazza watching the world go by. When our Tartufo finally arrives we are not disappointed. It is delicious and the chocolate is oozing out of the middle. Jeff says “This is next level….”, it’s true, who would have thought you could improve on gelato?
After this experience we ordered Tartufo in several other locations of Calabria, but what they say is true, you must get it here in Pizzo, even if it comes from Pizzo it will not be the same. They literally make the Tartufo while you wait for it, that why it’s gooey in the middle. If you eat one already frozen it won’t be gooey. It will be good….but not gooey.
That’s how it is in Italy, if you want it to be “the best”, it must be the red onions from Tropea, the Tartufo from Pizzo, the Pizza from Napoli and the Carbonara from Rome. It certainly makes for a fun culinary road trip! Speaking of Roadtrip, it’s time for our Roadtrip to continue, now we must cross the toe of the boot and make our way to Monasterace, our final stop…
Other Articles About Traveling & Living in Italy:
The Ancient City of Matera(Published August 2019)
Alberobello, in the Pulgia Region of Italy(Published August 2019)
Our Roadtrip to Calabria, First Stop: Crotone (Published August 2019)
House Hunters International in Italy(Published April 24, 2019)
A Californian Surfing in Italy(Published May 1, 2019)
Our New Town in Italy(Published June 17, 2019
Life Lessons from the Secret Garden(Published June 21, 2019)
Homemade Pizza in a “Wood-fired” Pizza Oven(Published July 5, 2019)
Summer Guests(Published August 3, 2019)
Wild Boar, Cows on the Loose and Rabbit Stew(Published August 2019)
